North-East Bangladesh, Top Attractions, Sylhet

Srimangal Tea Gardens, Lowacherra National Park, Sunamganj Wetlands

May 13, 2009

The border region of Sylhet is a peaceful place with lush hills and tea gardens, spectacular wetlands and virgin forest rich in wildlife.

Framed by rolling hills, bounded on two sides by India, Sylhet is a short flight or a long rail or road journey from Dhaka. Beyond the provincial capital, this is Bangladesh at its rural best, scenic and green, laced with rivers and lakes, pineapple plantations, lemon orchards, tea estates and great swathes of protected forest.

Here visitors have the chance to meet indigenous hill tribes, explore the Lowacherra National Park, go bird watching in the wetlands and discover the country’s favourite brew in the Srimangal tea gardens. It’s the perfect hideaway for nature lovers and those who like to wander off the beaten track.

Srimangal is the tea capital of Bangladesh, a lovely area where estates roll across the velvety slopes and trees have been planted to shade the crops. Saris splash colour in this sea of green as women nimbly pick two leaves and a bud. Only a few estates open their doors to private visitors but a smile and polite request might just do the trick. Cycling along the lanes is sheer pleasure, with plenty of wayside stalls to enjoy a refreshing cuppa.

The Srimangal Tea Gardens produce a variety of grades but not to be missed is the unique five-coloured brew, invented by two brothers and claiming a secret recipe. Neither colours nor flavours ever mix.

The Lowacherra National Park is just 8 km from Srimangal and easy to explore along short walking trails, with maps and guides available at the visitors’ centre. Covering a relatively small area within a larger reserve, it is popular with tourists but remains a great place to spot the wildlife and feel like old jungle hands.

Gibbons crash through the canopy, huge banana spiders hang from low branches and the call of exotic birds echoes deep in the forest. There are 246 species of birds, brightly coloured butterflies, barking deer, capped langurs and Himalayan squirrels.

Indigenous tribes living on the edge of the park include the Monipuri famous for their traditional dance and the Khashia who set up home on the hilltops among betel nut trees.

West of Sylhet, the Sunamganj wetlands are most spectacular at the end of the monsoon when water levels are at their highest and villages seem to float like islands. The lakes called haors can appear as vast and choppy as the sea.

For birdwatchers however, winter may be a better time when migrating and wintering birds join large numbers of year round residents. Serious twitchers would need four days to explore the best of the wetlands, several hours upstream from the Surma river, but an overnight visit might still bring some rewarding sightings such as teals and crakes, fishing eagles, blue-bearded bee eaters or spotted redshanks.

Sailing on the river is also a great way to witness rural life both on land and water.

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